Aurum pure beeswax candles are made of 100% natural, unrefined yellow beeswax sourced from unsprayed and unfertilized wildflower fields in Wisconsin. This cosmetic-grade wax has a vibrant color and wonderfully delicious honey scent.
I have the pleasure of making candles every day. Making candles by hand using authentic historical methods is time-consuming, but it is an enjoyable and rewarding process.
Step One: I start the beeswax melting, using a double-boiler method to prevent fire. Most of my candles are naturally golden yellow without the addition of coloring agents, and I prefer it that way. Some friends began requesting colored candles, and I was able to source some natural plant-based dyes for use in select candles. Any dye is added at this time for even color distribution.
Step Two: When using a historical tinplate mold for the first time, the wick holes must be enlarged in order to successfully string the wicks. I widen the holes using a knife tip and fork prongs. This process only needs to be done once, unless the mold warps over time. For rubber molds, used to create the more complex-shaped candles, a pin or nail is inserted one time through the base of the mold.
I have the pleasure of making candles every day. Making candles by hand using authentic historical methods is time-consuming, but it is an enjoyable and rewarding process.
Step One: I start the beeswax melting, using a double-boiler method to prevent fire. Most of my candles are naturally golden yellow without the addition of coloring agents, and I prefer it that way. Some friends began requesting colored candles, and I was able to source some natural plant-based dyes for use in select candles. Any dye is added at this time for even color distribution.
Step Two: When using a historical tinplate mold for the first time, the wick holes must be enlarged in order to successfully string the wicks. I widen the holes using a knife tip and fork prongs. This process only needs to be done once, unless the mold warps over time. For rubber molds, used to create the more complex-shaped candles, a pin or nail is inserted one time through the base of the mold.
Step Three: Unlike the wicks in most commercial candles, Aurum candle wicks are 100% braided cotton, free of lead, zinc, and other contaminants. I lightly wax the wicks to stiffen them. The entire length of wick—not just the tip—needs to be waxed to facilitate stringing through the columns. I briefly dip the wicks in melted wax, let excess wax drip off, and let the wicks dry as straight as possible. Too much wax leads to too wide of wicks to fit through the mold holes. Extra wax is difficult to scrape off.
Step Four: I string the wicks through the columns. This is by far the most difficult part of the process (and my least favorite).
Step Five: I finish setting up the molds and plug any extra space between the wicks and the wick holes with soft wax.
To prevent wicks from pulling all the way through the tips I may:
- string the mold in pairs
- tie a knot at the tip of each wick (the historically accurate method)
- use masking tape (the method I most often employ).
Step Five: I finish setting up the molds and plug any extra space between the wicks and the wick holes with soft wax.
To prevent wicks from pulling all the way through the tips I may:
- string the mold in pairs
- tie a knot at the tip of each wick (the historically accurate method)
- use masking tape (the method I most often employ).
Next, I align the wicks at the other side of the mold such that they are centered within each column. Candlemaking guides recommend tying the wicks around a stick. I find tying difficult and often cannot get the wicks property taut and centered through this method. As a final resort I use tape to keep the wicks in place.
Step Six: It is now time to pour the beeswax. Most books recommend heating beeswax to 140-185 C; wax cooler than this will solidify too quickly and cause the candles to crack, while wax warmer than this can scald, leading to discoloration. Pouring directly from the melting bowl is dangerous and messy, so I use a measuring cup to transfer wax from the melting bowl to each column of the molds.
Most of my candles are naturally lightly honey-scented without the addition of fragrances, and I prefer it this way. Some friends began requesting more fragrant candles, and I was able to source some essential oils for use in select candles. These are natural plant oils extracted without the use of harsh chemicals. I am proud to disclose all ingredients, and I encourage you to check out the "Ingredients" tab to read about any of the ingredients used in Aurum products. I add any essential oils after pouring in Step 6, as they would evaporate and lose their qualities at higher temperatures.
Step Seven: It is now time to let the wax cool and harden. I check on the candles about every 15 minutes and pour in additional melted wax as necessary, since the beeswax shrinks as it cools. When the wax is completely cool—ideally overnight but a minimum of three hours-- I remove the candles from the mold. This is not so gentle a process as guidebooks would have you believe. First, I remove the wax plugs and knots/tape from the wick tips. Next, I score the wax around each column opening. One is supposed to “pull gently” on the wicks and have beautiful candles emerge. My experience has shown that even when pulling on the wicks with pliers and pressing one foot down on the mold the candles generally do not budge. (But again, I do not use chemical-baesd mold releases to facilitate the process.) I place the molds in the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes, give three good hammer knocks to each column, and the candles magically pop out of their molds. The rubber molds used for the shaped candles are much simpler.
Most of my candles are naturally lightly honey-scented without the addition of fragrances, and I prefer it this way. Some friends began requesting more fragrant candles, and I was able to source some essential oils for use in select candles. These are natural plant oils extracted without the use of harsh chemicals. I am proud to disclose all ingredients, and I encourage you to check out the "Ingredients" tab to read about any of the ingredients used in Aurum products. I add any essential oils after pouring in Step 6, as they would evaporate and lose their qualities at higher temperatures.
Step Seven: It is now time to let the wax cool and harden. I check on the candles about every 15 minutes and pour in additional melted wax as necessary, since the beeswax shrinks as it cools. When the wax is completely cool—ideally overnight but a minimum of three hours-- I remove the candles from the mold. This is not so gentle a process as guidebooks would have you believe. First, I remove the wax plugs and knots/tape from the wick tips. Next, I score the wax around each column opening. One is supposed to “pull gently” on the wicks and have beautiful candles emerge. My experience has shown that even when pulling on the wicks with pliers and pressing one foot down on the mold the candles generally do not budge. (But again, I do not use chemical-baesd mold releases to facilitate the process.) I place the molds in the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes, give three good hammer knocks to each column, and the candles magically pop out of their molds. The rubber molds used for the shaped candles are much simpler.
Step Eight: Finally I finish the candles. I cut off excess wax from the base, melt a portion off the bottom for a pleasant and even appearance, and trim the wick to length. I make sure there are no cracks, dents, or impurities, and generally decorate the candles with a label. They are now good to go!
Just a few of the many types of candles we offer...